There are an incredible number of carefully wrapped sweets. Many are made by the local convent.
Buttery, melt in your mouth base with chunks of almonds.
Imagine a chocolate flavored version of the Mexican wedding cake cookie.
This one has a lemony jelly filling sandwiched between flaky layers. It’s delicious.
Shortbread with ground almonds, dusted with powdered sugar
This one has almonds, butter and sweet wine.
Castro Del Rio to Baena – 14.3 miles Prickly pear on the way to Baena.
For much of the day we followed the Guadajoz River.
An irresistible blank canvas for a sweetheart’s message. It rained a bit then the sky was gorgeous with thick rolling clouds. There are way stations for pilgrims along the route. To do this you need a pilgrim passport with stamps proving you are walking. River bridge Much of the day we walked by olive groves. Olives have been grown in this area since Roman times and many of the trees are very old. Baena! There is a wonderful olive museum in Baena showing how olives are processed. This is a picture of many of the different types of oil produced. Olive oil is one of the main economic drivers.
Baena, like many of the towns we are passing through, has many layers of civilizations from Neolithic to Iberian to Roman to Visigoth to Moor to present day. There is a wonderful archeological museum showing finds from each era.
If you’d like to learn more about olive processing look here.
The head of Caesar found near Baena.
We were surprised to see so many flowers!
Lavender
Thyme
Almond trees are often planted on the edges of the olive groves. They’ve just started to bloom now in early February.
By the river.
Flowering rosemary beside the olive groves.
A tiny version of Calendula?
Wild Iris
Cordoba to Ategua – 16 miles
Leaving Cordoba we crossed the Guadalquivir River by walking across the fortified Roman Bridge.
Walking across the Roman bridge to start the day.
Walking up into the hills from Cordoba.
We soon left the paved road and walked along this gravel route. There were very few cars.
The route is well marked.
Iris bloomed at the top of the hills.
The road narrowed and we passed fields of winter wheat.
As the sun descended we passed gnarled olive trees covered with fruit ready for harvest.
An interpretive sign showed we were nearly there.
We arrived it just as the sun set.
The site was closed unless you called ahead to make arrangements for a visit but we did see some of the remains from below.
We camped nearby in an olive grove and watched stars the Romans saw. I dreamt of ring wraiths and history.
Ategua to Espejo to Castro del Rio – 15 miles Leaving Ategua we passed hillside ruins of a Roman mine and descended into the valley. Corralled sheep Soon after passing the sheep we saw this ewe with a newborn. We told a man pruning olives and he seemed quite amused but did say he’d let the shepherd know. Rain threatened and we walked towards palm trees and a small river. Forging the happily shallow water; it was very cold. Climbing into the hills. We lunched under an olive tree. Olives are ripe and being harvested.
To harvest nets are laid down then machines shake the trees. The olives are then emptied into a truck.
The town of Espejo can be seen for miles.
This was a border town between Moorish and Christian Spain. As with many of these towns the castle was for protection.
Renovated Roman cistern. The Romans grew olives and put in extensive canal and cistern systems.
On to Castro Del Rio!
Madrid is the capitol of Spain, the third largest city in Europe and the financial center of Southern Europe. As with many other places in Spain it was initially a Roman city that fell to the Visigoths, the Moors then was ultimately incorporated into Christian Castille in 1085.
We are staying at the Hostal Oriente; a lovely spot in the center of the city. We awoke at 5:30 the first morning to Shakira and the smell of baking bread. Off to see the sunrise!
Artistic street signs
Courtyard
Almudena Cathedral
Entrance to the palace.
The Crystal Palace
Promenade to the Prado Museum.
Monument to Alfonso the 12th
Full view
Walkway through the middle of the park.
The Prado
Rebuilt church housing sculpture.
A copy of the Mona Lisa being copied again.
Entrance
The interior
The cathedral at night.
The sidewalk is well segregated from traffic.
This street is just open to pedestrians for most of the day.
A huge part of any trip is the food!
We’ve been eating a lot in local bars.
The hot chocolate is thick and amazing.
Coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice
Tapas in a can – delicious!
A store just for ham!
Pastry shops have traditional custards and more exotic sweets as well.
The coffee is strong and good and often comes with a sweet biscuit.
Salad with cherry tomatoes and baked rounds of balsamic vinegar drizzled goat cheese.
Paella with verdura.
We had breakfast at um, McDonald’s and found toast with olive oil and tomato. It was delicious.
A vendor near the hotel sells chestnuts, corn and roasted sweet potato.
Cheese!
Climbing up the hill from the train station to the walled city of Toledo it does feel like you’re entering a different world.
Walls surround much of the city.
Church of San Andres
View from La Mezquita
Walk along the Tajo (Tagus) River
Santa Maria Cathedral
Excavated Roman baths
Cobblestone streets
Narrow, winding streets
View of Toledo and the Alcazar
Alcantara Bridge (originally Roman)
Porcelain wares
City at night
View across the river valley
So true!
Córdoba is a city in Andalusia. It was a major Roman city, a center for Jewish learning and a vital Islamic center in the Middle Ages.
The most famous monument is La Mezquita, an enormous mosque built in 784 A.D. In 1236 it became a Catholic Church.
Córdoba reminds me of Arizona with orange trees everywhere and sunny skies.
There are street cats everywhere and these are relaxing on the ruins.
Ruins of a Roman temple
La Mezquita
Inside La Mezquita
Alfred moving towards the light.
Famous Anadalusian Jewish women scholars.
Roman bridge
Kitchen from a recreated house from the Middle Ages
Who can resist a route with a name like this? We’re landing in Madrid, spending a few days there, then taking a train to Toledo and Cordoba where the walking will start. (I am posting the outline of the trip then will fill in with more photos and details as we go.)
La Ruta del Califato runs from Cordoba to Granada and is also known as the Camino Mozarabe de Santiago. It is a path that “en definitiva, que nos hará, sin duda, un poco más sabios” (a road that will make us without doubt, a little wiser).
In January the average temperature is predicted to be around 60 during the day and 38 at night. We may do some camping but are aiming to stay in town most evenings.
Cordoba was founded in 152 BC by the Romans who made it the capitol of Hispania. The famous philosopher Seneca is from this city. Conquered by the Muslims in the 8th century they made it the capitol of their Islamic Emirate and it became a center for learning. The city was captured by King Ferdinand III in 1236 and has been under Spanish rule since.
Castro del Rio is an ancient town on the banks of the Guadajoz river.
Baena is on the Marbella river and is renowned for olive oil and linens. It too was a Roman then Muslim city captured by King Ferdinand. It was on the historic border with the Muslim kingdom of Granada and is famous for its old town and castle.
Alcaudete is famous for its 13th century Calatravo castle and the church of Santa Maria.
Alcala Real is thought to be one of the last places lived in by Neanderthal man. It was also a Roman city and ruled by Muslims. Watchtowers were built against Normans and Vikings. During the Napoleonic Peninsular War in the early 1800’s the upper city was burned. (Setting of part of the Netflix series Jonathan Strange and Mr. Norrell.)
Moclin was the site of a famous battle between Muslims and Christians in 1280.
Pinos Puenta is the home of the Spanish poet Federico Garcia Lorca: “Three hundred dark roses stain your white shirtfront”.
The town is also well known for dishes such as migas, gazpacho, bean stews and noodle casseroles or fideos a la cazuela (even “noodle casserole” sounds more delicious in Spanish).
Granada is home to the Alhambra and will get its very own post.