Route of the Caliphate

Ruta Day Six – Across the Sierras Subetticas 

Route of the Caliphate, Spain

Across the Subbeticas 9 miles

Today we left the lovely town of Zuheros and spent the day hiking through the Subbeticas Nature Reserve. All day we heard the sounds of belled goats and smelled thyme and other herbs.

Adiós Zuheros!

Limestone caves were everywhere and one cave is enormous with prehistoric remains and cave art. (El Cueva de los Murciélagos)

Much of the land was covered with oak trees and flowers grew in the shady glens.

The amount of work to clear the land must have been incredible.

We saw bones of old houses and lots of animal bones.

Looking over the valley at the edge of the park.

At last we saw goats!

We laid out our bags at the base of a huge cliff filled with calling birds; as the sun set we heard an owl.

Sunset

Ruta Day Four and Five – Baena to Zuheros

Route of the Caliphate, Spain

Baena to Zuheros – 8 miles

Today’s walk was short with glorious scenery! Zuheros is in the Subbeticas Nature Preserve and it’s well worth the visit.

We stayed a second night in Zuheros and went to a bat cave. Photos forbidden so no record but a good hike and great guide.

Leaving Baena

Down into the valley from town.

Baena

This day we followed the Marbella River.

Olive groves

I was amazed to see trees in full bloom.

Almost to Zuheros.

Subbetica!

Castle at Zuheros.

We stayed an extra day in Zuheros and visited the bat caves. We just saw two bats but as our guide said “it’s not a zoo and the bats don’t have a schedule”.

Entrance to the cave.


Just inside, no photos allowed beyond this point. We went on to see cave paintings, burial sites and incredible cave formations.

Cookies!

Camino Mozarabe, Route of the Caliphate, Spain

There are an incredible number of carefully wrapped sweets. Many are made by the local convent.

Buttery, melt in your mouth base with chunks of almonds.

Imagine a chocolate flavored version of the Mexican wedding cake cookie.

This one has a lemony jelly filling sandwiched between flaky layers. It’s delicious.

Shortbread with ground almonds, dusted with powdered sugar

This one has almonds, butter and sweet wine.

Ruta Day Three – Castro Del Rio to Baena

Route of the Caliphate, Spain

Castro Del Rio to Baena – 14.3 miles

Prickly pear on the way to Baena.

For much of the day we followed the Guadajoz River.

An irresistible blank canvas for a sweetheart’s message.

It rained a bit then the sky was gorgeous with thick rolling clouds.

There are way stations for pilgrims along the route. To do this you need a pilgrim passport with stamps proving you are walking.

River bridge

Much of the day we walked by olive groves.

Olives have been grown in this area since Roman times and many of the trees are very old.

Baena!

There is a wonderful olive museum in Baena showing how olives are processed. This is a picture of many of the different types of oil produced. Olive oil is one of the main economic drivers.


Baena, like many of the towns we are passing through, has many layers of civilizations from Neolithic to Iberian to Roman to Visigoth to Moor to present day. There is a wonderful archeological museum showing finds from each era.

If you’d like to learn more about olive processing look here.

The head of Caesar found near Baena.

Ruta Day One – Cordoba to the Roman Ruins of Ategua 

Route of the Caliphate, Spain

Cordoba to Ategua – 16 miles

    Leaving Cordoba we crossed the Guadalquivir River by walking across the fortified Roman Bridge.

    Walking across the Roman bridge to start the day.

    Walking up into the hills from Cordoba.

    We soon left the paved road and walked along this gravel route. There were very few cars.

    The route is well marked.

    Iris bloomed at the top of the hills.

    The road narrowed and we passed fields of winter wheat.

    As the sun descended we passed gnarled olive trees covered with fruit ready for harvest.

    An interpretive sign showed we were nearly there.


     

    We arrived it just as the sun set.

    The site was closed unless you called ahead to make arrangements for a visit but we did see some of the remains from below.

    We camped nearby in an olive grove and watched stars the Romans saw. I dreamt of ring wraiths and history.

      Ruta Day Two – Ategua Ruins to Castro del Rio

      Route of the Caliphate, Spain

      Ategua to Espejo to Castro del Rio  – 15 miles

      Leaving Ategua we passed hillside ruins of a Roman mine and descended into the valley.

      Corralled sheep

      Soon after passing the sheep we saw this ewe with a newborn. We told a man pruning olives and he seemed quite amused but did say he’d let the shepherd know.

      Rain threatened and we walked towards palm trees and a small river.

      Forging the happily shallow water; it was very cold.

      Climbing into the hills.

      We lunched under an olive tree. Olives are ripe and being harvested.

      To harvest nets are laid down then machines shake the trees. The olives are then emptied into a truck.

      The town of Espejo can be seen for miles.

      This was a border town between Moorish and Christian Spain. As with many of these towns the castle was for protection.

      Renovated Roman cistern. The Romans grew olives and put in extensive canal and cistern systems.

      On to Castro Del Rio!